The Beers of Eataly

On the corner of Broadway and 23^rd street, just a short walk away from Penn Station, is a huge indoor market where you can find NYC’s best Italian food and drink under one roof.  There are merchants selling cheeses, gelato, vegetables, wines, beers and much more. It’s all a little overwhelming.  At least, that’s how I felt when Doreen and I first walked in.  It felt a little like a crowded department store where the ailes are purposely kept narrow so customers keep bumping into products they might want to buy. 

Along with all the retail shops, there are six restaurants to choose from. The only problem is finding a seat during lunch time.  Most had hour long waits for a table, but we were lucky enough to wander into a large open Piazza with standing tables.  As we walked in, a couple was just vacating their spot so we sidled right in their place.  A waiter materialized in seconds and minutes later we were enjoying our first Eatalian drinks. 

Doreen ordered a fine Pinot Noir and I started with a Birra Moretti La Rossa (7.2 % Alc.).  Moretti has been brewed in the northern Italian town of Udine for more than 150 years.  Made with water that flows from the nearby Austrian Alps, these beers have have won many awards including a gold and silver medal at the 2006 World Beer Cup.  My first choice was also a real winner.  La Rossa’s sweet caramel smell and malty taste combined wonderfully with our cheese plate. We were also served fresh bread with various dips including a honey and amaretto dip that sent my sweet tooth to Nirvana. 

We walked the market some more amazed at the selection of food and drink. After a couple tries, we found an eatery that had seats at the bar and we jumped at them.   Manza Ristorante specializes in local meats and fresh pastas. As an appetizer, we ordered mozzarella cheese with almonds, brown butter and guanciale, which is an Italian bacon made from the pig’s cheek.  The cheese was smooth and creamy and so delicious that we bought the ingredients on our way out and Doreen made the dish a few days later.

On our waiter/bartender’s recommendation, Doreen had a G. Menanrea e figli.  This amber lager was also a medal winner at the World Championships in 2002.  She found it light and refreshing with plenty of carbonation.  I had an Strada s. Felice Grando Plato  ( 8% Alc.) brewed in the town with the happy-sounding name of Chieri, Italy.   This amber ale is brewed with chestnuts grown in the Piedmont region and tastes of toffee and caramel.  Doreen chose the riggioli with duck ragu and foie gras, which is made from the “fat liver” of the duck.  I dined on spaghetti alla chiterra with lobster, tomato and basil.  Both dishes were excellent in their own way.

After our meal we walked the market and found a sign that said Birreria.  Now I don’t speak the language but I translated this to mean “beer area”.  Actually, it means brew pub or brewery. Underneath the sign, were some of the finest beers from Italy and what I think is one of the best American Breweries, Dogfish Head. Sam Calagione from DFH and Teo Musso of Baladin and Lurisia Breweries helped with the selection. 

They also helped develop the Birreria on the 14^th floor.  By this hour the pub was mobbed and we were just able to grab a corner of the bar and one of the few DFH beers I haven’t had yet, Immort Ale.   At 11% alcohol it was way too strong for a post-meal beer, but at least I can add it to my list.

The bar crowd was friendly and the place apparently has an outdoor sitting area that I would have liked to see.  We were feeling a little cramped so we made our way back to the elevator and down to street level to purchase some of the treats we experienced today. 

So if you are looking for a taste of Italy but can’t afford to travel there, just jump on a train and in a flash you can be experiencing great Eatalian Cuisine.

Bronx Ale House

I happened to be in New York City's northern-most borough the other day and decided to stop into the Bronx  Ale House for lunch. The "Rogue" neon sign seemed to just draw me to the place.  This small bar is located on 238th Street about 2 blocks from Manhattan College and Van Cortlandt Park.  I had heard that they have a solid selection of craft beers on tap and I was not misled. 

The dart boards and fireplace give this bar a homey feel.  I could envision patrons coming in out of the cold in December and warmimg up with a pint next to the fire.  Steve, the bartender, told me that they are starting to build clientele in the neighborhood, but people will get off the nearby subway stop from all parts of the city for their beer.

Steve has a solid knowledge of craft beers and this AP English teacher eloquently described the characteristics of each beer I sampled. I told him that currently I’m drinking a lot of dark ales so he started me with a sample of Ommegang Abbey Ale.  This Belgian style ale had a delightful spicy aftertaste, but at 9% ABV, I thought it might be a little strong for midday.  Next, I tried Founders Porter which had a smooth, woody taste and a 6% ABV.  Finally, I enjoyed the malty sweetness of a 21st Amendment Back in Black Ale (6.8%%).  I settled on the porter with lunch but filled a growler of 21st Amendment to take home. 

There is something about the taste of dark malty ale that really appeals to me. These beers seem to have more depth to them.  Sometimes they fill me up like I just had a good meal. I know that many people like to save these darker, "heavier" beers for the cold weather, but I find  they are great any time of year. 

My lunch consisted of burger sliders (they also serve chicken sliders) and fries.  The Bronx Ale house even makes their own ketchup that had a tangy BBQ sauce flavor to it. The whole thing, growler included (I brought my own), cost me less than $25.  Where else can you get that much satisfaction in NYC for $25?  Don’t say it!

So if you are in “Da Bronx” any time soon, check them out and take a growler to go.  If you're a fan of The Bronx Ale House, leave a comment here about what you like most about BAH.

The Lot at 30th Street

Just to be clear, the image that you see directly above this text is misleading. As far as any of you Monday through Friday, nine-to-fivers are concerned, 'the Lot' (as this awesome outdoor venue is known) will never look that empty on a Saturday or a Sunday afternoon. If any of your brave soldiers, despite forewarning, do attempt to visit, beware: you must embrace yourself for the long, long line to get in. And I mean long. But is the wait worth it, you ask? Oh, yes. Hell friggin' yes!

Many of you are probably curious as to what exactly 'the Lot' is. To give an exact definition (take from http://www.thehighline.org/the-lot): "The Lot is a temporary public plaza below the Highline with free events, family activities, an outdoor bar, food trucks and more for the summer of 2011." And that explanation, in turn, will inevitably lead to another question: "What the hell is the Highline?!" Well, we'll get to that later. But for a brief summarization, click on this: http://www.thehighline.org/abpit/faq.

Phew. That's over with. Now! On to the fun stuff...

What's on tap at the Lot?
Most of the brews served here are from Brooklyn Brewery. One in particular was conceived especially for the opening of the Lot: High Line Elevated Wheat. This was the beer I tried first and loyally stuck with. (It's also the only name I remember. Shucks.) As far as wheat beers go, this brew was smooth going down, crisp and citrusy to the last sip. Each beer, served in pint-sized plastic cups, will cost you $7. Wine, $9. But, honestly, who's coming to the Lot to drink wine?!

What's there to eat?
We all know that food trucks are a ubiquitous staple throughout New York. But a big problem that the drivers of these mobilized meals-on-wheels encounter is finding an out-of-the-way location to post up their vehicles during the day. The Lot on Tap has provided several food vendors with a solution to this former dilemma. These food truckers can now seek refuge under the north terminus of the Highline, free from pestering city cops who are hell bent on serving anyone a ticket for loitering. Not only do they receive sanctuary, but the added bonus of drunk people encirling their stainless steel window counters like zombies, looking to stuff their fat gobs with beer-friendly treats. To name a couple:

Kimchi Taco: I had the '4 tacos for $9' deal. The Grilled Korean Beef BBQ as well as the Tofu Edamame Falafel were my two favorite. The Pulled Chicken and Seared pork I could have done without. (Now that I'm reflecting from a sober standpoint, I must confess that the taco shells themselves were kind of soggy. But the spicy stuff hidden inside - as well as my beer buzzed brain - rendered me too drunk and sated to care.)

Rickshaw Dumpling: I had the Chicken and Thai Basil dumplings with a spicy peanut dipping sauce. Pretty. F'ing. Spectacular. The other two dumpling varieties available that day were the Classic Pork and Chinese Chive as well as the Vegetarian Edamame. If these two were anything as good as the Chicken and Thai Basil, I would recommend them a thousand times over. And then some.

There were three other trucks there that day - one serving pizza (that I heard was sub-par), one serving falafel (I'm still pissed about not getting to try this truck), and one serving ice cream (that a friend of mine who I hadn't seen in 4 years was enjoying for a good hour before finally licking her fingers clean. I am still amazed that her ice cream sandwich ended up mostly in her mouth and not all over her chic tube-tob dress. It was really hot that day.)

The best part about finishing up an afternoon at the Lot (or the most challenging, depending on how drunk you are) is climbing up the stairs to the start of the Highline, a roughly 2-mile long stretch of walkway that was, before its conversion, an abandoned railroad. Now, there is a generously wide cement-laid path that can easily accomodate 5 to 6 bodies walking side-by-side at some of its more scenic sections. You are surrounded on both sides by greenery galore, and the occasional bench here and there. Words really do it no justice. To see for yourselves, click here: http://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/highline/photos.

I know, I know. This is supposed to be a blog about beer. And instead, I chose to write more about a place that serves beer rather than the beverage itself. Sue me. I just had to get the word out there before the Lot vanishes forever, as often happens with cool and unique establishments such as this one. Get there while you still can. And don't forget to try the dumplings!

Hallo Berlin German Beer Garden

Took the train into Manhattan to meet some friends at Hallo Berlin on 44th and 10th ave. I'd heard a lot about it from another friend who is a history teacher and a lover of everything German. He said it was his favorite German restaraunt in New York. It was even included in a recent New York Times article about historic beer gardens. As a result, I was kind of surprised when I almost walked right by it. First of all, the awning out front has the name as "Hello Berlin". Inside is a narrow bar and about a half dozen tables in the back. There are tables outside on a small patio - the beer garden. It was a hot day so we opted to sit inside.

We each chose different beers to start and sampled each others selections. The Hefeweizen was sweet and delicious. The black lager had the interesting taste of a dark ale with the drinkability of a lager. By far the most interesting beer was the Augustinus Maximator. Rich, who is a retired Latin teacher, informed us that the word "maximator" comes from a latin word that means extreme. This doublebock was extreme with tons of flavor and a 7.5% ABV.

Just as memorable was the food we had to accompany our drinks. My wieiner schnitzel was cooked to perfection and the sour kraut was a meal in itself. We all agreed that even without the amazing German beers, the food alone waranted a return trip to Hallo Berlin.